(Bloomberg) — For more than 20 years, the massive Tsui Wah branch on Wellington Street was a late night favorite of Hong Kongers. Open 24 hours a day, the cha chaan teng served up local classics like soup noodles, fried rice and egg sandwiches, washed down with tumblers of iced lemon tea — perfect fodder to soak up the alcohol drunk in nearby Lan Kwai Fong. At 2 a.m., a lively cross section of Hong Kong could be found there, talking over each other in the brash, clattering atmosphere under bright lights.
The restaurant shut down in 2020, its business hurt by protests and pandemic restrictions, the closure one of many marking the end of a louche era for the city’s nightlife.
In December, the chain opened a new and glitzier outlet on Wellington Street — part of a wave of old names returning. I visited with a friend in the evening recently for dinner after several beers (for historical authenticity’s sake). The interior is still overly illuminated, yet the polite ambience is a long way from the previous incarnation. There are nods to Hong Kong history: Curved wooden benches resemble those found on old trams, while the air-conditioning ducts overhead are painted shiny red.
Hungry, we ordered barbecued pork belly with scrambled egg on rice (HK$122), shredded pork and mushroom with fried noodles (HK$98) and chicken wings in supreme sauce (HK$78) — basically sweet soy chicken.
The pork belly, which came with a side of tangy sauce, was tender with a good sweetness from the coating, and the eggs were cooked just right with a near-runny consistency. The crispy noodles, which we doused in red vinegar, had a good mix of crunch and softness on the palate. The wings were plump and juicy.
Looking around, deep-fried prawns with kung pao peppercorn oil on fried noodles (HK$128) seemed a popular dish among the other diners, who were a sparse mix of locals and expats.
For late-night dining after the Rugby Sevens, or just a normal meal, it’s a good spot. The food is accessible but exotic enough for out-of-towners. It’s not the Tsui Wah of old, but residents in Hong Kong have gotten used to change.
The total bill came to HK$366, which included a couple of rehydrating fresh lime sodas.
The vibe: Upmarket cha chaan teng, with pink neon-framed windows. Part of Central’s classic restaurant revivalist movement. The restaurant was half full on a Wednesday at 7:30 p.m.
Can you conduct a private meeting here? You could, but I don’t think you would.
What we’d order again: We enjoyed everything we ate. I’d give the prawns a try next time.
Need to know: The restaurant is at Silver Fortune Plaza, 1 Wellington St, Central and is open daily from 7 a.m. to midnight. —Richard Frost
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